A Rolex 116613 clone is a replica of the two-tone Submariner Date, the 40mm Oystersteel and 18k yellow gold dive watch Rolex made from roughly 2009 to 2020. Good examples get the case profile, gold tone, and bracelet fit close to the original, while weak ones fail on bezel engraving, dial print, and end-link gaps. Judging a rolex 116613 clone on those specific points is more useful than trusting a seller's photo set.
What the 116613 Reference Actually Is
The 116613 belongs to the Submariner Date line and replaced the earlier 16613. It uses a 40mm case, a Cerachrom ceramic bezel insert, a maxi dial with large hour markers, and the Calibre 3135 movement. The two-tone build means a steel case and bracelet with 18k yellow gold on the bezel, crown, and the center links of the Oyster bracelet. The blue-dial version, often called the Bluesy, carries the reference 116613LB.
That combination is exactly what a replica has to reproduce: the color relationship between steel and gold, the depth of the bezel engraving, and the way the gold center links sit against the steel outer links. Around 2020 the reference gave way to the 41mm 126613, which changed the case size and bracelet proportions.
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What Separates a Good Clone From a Weak One
Most of the visible quality lives in a handful of places. Check these before anything else:
- Case profile. The lugs should have the correct slab-sided shape with a slight chamfer, not a rounded or overly polished edge.
- Gold tone. Original 18k yellow gold has a warm, slightly muted yellow. Replicas often run too orange, too brassy, or too pale.
- Bezel insert. Ceramic should look deep and glassy, with crisp engraved numerals rather than printed ones.
- Dial printing. Text should be sharp under magnification, with even spacing and no ink bleed.
- End-link fit. Solid end links should meet the lugs with tight, even lines on both sides.
- Crystal and cyclops. The date magnifier should sit centered over the date window with clear magnification.
Gold Plating Versus Solid Gold
This is the detail that drives price more than any other. Entry-level replicas use thin gold plating or a PVD coating over steel. Mid-range examples use thicker plating, often a few microns, which holds color longer but still wears at high-friction points such as the clasp and the crown. A small number of high-end builds use solid 18k gold for the bezel and center links, which raises cost sharply and puts the watch in a different category.
Ask how the gold was applied and how thick it is. A seller who cannot answer that question is usually selling the bottom tier.
Movement Choices
The original runs the Calibre 3135, a 28,800 vph automatic with a power reserve around 48 hours. Replicas fall into two broad groups:
- Swiss or Asian ETA clones such as the 2824-style movements, which are reliable and easy for any watchmaker to service.
- 3135-style clones that copy the original layout, including the free-sprung balance and the crown position. Quality varies a lot between makers, and parts availability is uneven.
A smooth sweep, quiet winding, and a date that flips cleanly near midnight are basic checks. Ask whether the movement has been regulated and what the timekeeping is out of the box.
Case Size, Weight, and Feel
The 116613 wears at 40mm with roughly 20mm lugs and a case thickness near 12.7mm. Weight matters too: a two-tone watch should feel substantial but not front-heavy, and the bracelet should articulate without rattling. If a seller lists dimensions, compare them to those numbers. A case that measures 41mm or a thickness over 13mm is usually a different reference dressed up as a 116613.
Water Resistance Realities
The original is rated to 300 meters with a screw-down crown and a triple-lock seal system. Replica cases rarely match that, and marketing claims of 300 meters should be treated as unverified. If you plan to wear the watch near water, have a watchmaker pressure-test it first, and accept that most replicas should stay out of the pool regardless of what the listing says.
Questions to Ask Before Buying
- Which movement is inside, and is it a 3135-style clone or an ETA-style build?
- How was the gold applied, and what is the plating thickness?
- What are the exact case diameter, lug width, and thickness?
- Has the watch been pressure-tested, and at what rating?
- What is the return window, and does it cover movement faults?
- Are the bracelet screws and spring bars the correct type for the reference?
A Note on Legality and Expectations
Counterfeit branded goods are restricted in many countries, and customs services in the US and EU do seize them. Buy with that in mind. A replica is a replica: it will not hold value like an original 116613, and service support depends entirely on the seller and the movement inside. Treat the purchase as a fun wearing piece, budget accordingly, and put your money into the details you can actually see on the wrist.