Short answer

IWC does not catalog a 39mm Portugieser. The closest reference is the Portugieser Automatic 40, reference IW3583, at 40.4mm wide and 12.3mm thick. Listings that say 39mm quote a measurement taken at the bezel. Cases sold under that label land between 39.0mm and 40.5mm. Treat 39mm as a seller number, not a factory spec.

Dimensions to check

  • Case diameter at the bezel: 39.0mm to 40.4mm
  • Case thickness: 12.0mm to 13.5mm
  • Lug width: 20mm on time-only builds and on the chronograph
  • Lug to lug: about 47mm
  • Crystal: sapphire, 1.5mm to 2.0mm, anti-reflective coating on one or both faces

Ask the seller for a caliper photo. A tape measure photo hides 1mm to 2mm of error.

Movements used

Time-only builds use three movements in the main. The Miyota 9015 runs at 28,800 vph with 24 jewels and a 42 hour reserve. Clones of the IWC 82200 use Pellaton style winding at the same rate with a 60 hour reserve. The Seagull ST21 and ETA 2824 clone family runs at 25 jewels.

Chronograph builds use the A7750 or the Dandong 7750, both at 28,800 vph with a 44 hour to 48 hour reserve. That platform puts the running seconds at 6 o'clock through a transfer gear set. The extra load on the seconds pinion is the source of most service failures in older 7750 builds. A 7750 based replica needs a service interval shorter than a time-only build.

Case, dial, and strap

Cases are 316L stainless steel. Sides are polished and the case back is brushed on most builds. Some sellers offer 904L at a higher price. Applied markers replace printed markers on the better dials. Straps measure 20mm and come in calfskin or alligator grain. Genuine alligator appears on a small share of listings and adds cost.

Price bands

  • Entry builds: $120 to $200
  • Mid builds: $220 to $350
  • High-tier builds: $380 to $550

Price tracks movement type and dial finish more than case size.

Legal status in the US

Counterfeit watches are illegal to import and sell in the United States. 19 U.S.C. 1526 lets Customs seize and destroy a shipment. 18 U.S.C. 2320 sets criminal penalties for trafficking. A seizure usually leaves the buyer with no refund from the seller.

Checks before paying

  1. Get a caliper photo of the case.
  2. Ask which movement, with a photo of the rotor and balance.
  3. Confirm lug width and strap material.
  4. Confirm the crown threads and the date flips at midnight, not at noon.
  5. Read the return policy and the shipping method.