Replica IW938720: the short answer
The string "IW938720" is a seller-side catalog number, not an IWC reference you can look up. IWC stamps its references on the caseback and lists them in its own product catalog, and this code does not line up with that system. So the number tells you which listing you are viewing on a replica site. It does not tell you what the watch is. Before any money moves, get the case diameter, the dial layout, the movement inside, and the bracelet type in writing.
Why the code matters less than you think
Replica sellers reuse SKU codes across factories and revisions. The same number can point to a 40mm steel model one month and a 42mm two-tone version the next, because the code belongs to the storefront, not to the watch being copied.
IWC reference numbers follow a pattern: IW plus six digits, engraved on the caseback and searchable in official product archives. If a listing shows a code and nothing else, ask for a photo of the caseback engraving. Genuine engraving is crisp and consistent between examples. Replica engraving tends to run shallow, or too deep, or spaced unevenly.
What to ask for before buying
- Case diameter and thickness in millimeters, measured rather than copied from the original spec sheet.
- Movement name and origin: Swiss or Swiss-clone automatic, Japanese, or Chinese. This drives price more than anything else.
- Crystal type: sapphire with anti-reflective coating, or mineral glass.
- Dial photos in daylight, not studio lighting. Look closely at the printing on the subdials and the markers.
- Bracelet and clasp photos, including end links and the engraving on the clasp.
- Weight. A steel case that feels light usually means a hollow build.
- Return policy and payment method in writing. Reversible payment is your only real protection.
Movement tiers and what they cost
Three tiers show up under codes like this one. Entry level runs a Chinese automatic with a decorated rotor, usually 30 to 80 dollars. Mid tier uses a Japanese movement, quieter and more stable, and lands around 150 to 300. High tier fits a Swiss or Swiss-clone automatic with a decorated movement, and that is where prices jump past 400. Ask which one is in the case, then ask for a photo of the movement through the caseback. Vague answers are themselves a signal.
Price signals worth noticing
A price far below the rest of the market usually means a different movement, a plated case instead of solid steel, or mineral glass instead of sapphire. I would rather see a seller list exact specs and charge more than see a low number with no detail. Compare three or four listings sharing the same code and read what differs. The differences are the real product.
The parts most buyers skip
Water resistance is the one claim I never trust on a replica. Gaskets are often missing or dry, and a "50m" label means nothing without pressure testing. Keep it away from water. Service is the other gap: no independent watchmaker will honor a warranty on these, and a movement that runs well at first can drift within a year. Treat the purchase as disposable.
Resale is close to zero. There is no secondary market, no service network, and no parts support. If you want something you can hand down, a used mid-range watch from an established brand holds value in a way this never will.
Legal reality, briefly
In the United States, importing or selling counterfeit goods is illegal, and customs inspections do seize parcels. Buying for personal use sits in a grayer spot, but the parcel can still be destroyed and you can still lose the money. Trademark law protects the brand no matter what the listing calls itself. Worth knowing before you check out.
Bottom line
Replica IW938720 is a listing code, not a specification. Decide on the movement, the case material, the crystal, and the seller's willingness to answer direct questions. If a seller cannot name the movement or send a daylight photo of the dial, the code is the only thing you would be buying, and it is worth nothing.