A fake Rolex Explorer II 1655 is a replica of the vintage Rolex reference 1655, the first Explorer II, launched in 1971 and nicknamed the Steve McQueen. Quality in these replicas varies more than with almost any other vintage Rolex model, because the original's value sits in small case and dial details rather than in one obvious feature. The guide below explains what the real 1655 is, which details replicas tend to get wrong, and how to judge a build before you buy.
What the Original Reference 1655 Is
Rolex introduced the Explorer II reference 1655 in 1971 as a tool watch for people who spent long periods underground, where day and night are impossible to tell apart. It used a 39 mm stainless steel Oyster case with no crown guards, a fixed steel bezel engraved with a 24-hour scale, and an orange 24-hour hand that tracked a second time zone against that bezel. Inside sat the Rolex caliber 1575, a high-beat automatic movement with a date but no quick-set function on early examples.
Production ran until 1985, when the reference 16550 replaced it. The watch later picked up the "Steve McQueen" nickname, even though the actor was never photographed wearing one. That nickname is now attached to the 1655 in collector shorthand, and it is the term most sellers use.
Why the 1655 Is Hard to Copy Well
Modern Rolex replicas often look convincing because the current watches have simple, machine-cut geometry. The 1655 is the opposite. Its case has soft, hand-finished lines, its dial changed repeatedly across production, and its bezel engraving has a font and depth that are specific to the era. A replica factory that gets 90 percent right still produces something a collector spots instantly.
The details that separate a serious build from a cheap one:
- Case profile. Smooth flanks with no crown guards, thick lugs, and a 39 mm diameter that must match the original proportions. Oversized or slab-sided cases are the most common failure.
- Fixed bezel. Steel, not ceramic, with a 24-hour scale. Engraving should be crisp and consistent, not laser-etched and shallow.
- Hand set. The 24-hour hand must be straight with orange paint and reach the chapter ring. Bent or stubby hands read as fake at arm's length.
- Dial. Matte finish, correct text spacing, and a blank or "T SWISS T" signature depending on which production era is being copied. Glossy dials are wrong.
- Crystal. Acrylic with a gentle dome and no cyclops magnifier over the date. A magnifier is an immediate giveaway.
- Bracelet. An Oyster-style bracelet with folded or solid links that suit the period, plus end links that fit the lugs without gaps.
Movements Used in Replica 1655 Watches
The original caliber 1575 beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour, which gives the seconds hand a smooth sweep. Budget replicas usually run a lower-beat Asian movement, and the difference shows when you watch the hand. Mid and top tier builds often use a higher-beat automatic, sometimes with a GMT module that drives the 24-hour hand correctly rather than simply gearing it to the hour hand.
When you compare listings, ask what the movement is and how the 24-hour hand is set. A hand that cannot be adjusted independently is a functional shortcut, even if the watch looks right on the outside.
Quality Tiers and What They Buy
Replica Explorer II 1655 watches generally fall into three rough groups, and the gap between them is mostly about case and dial accuracy rather than brand names.
- Entry builds. Correct overall shape, plated or painted bezel markings, lower-beat movement. Fine for casual wear, obvious under close inspection.
- Mid tier. Better case finishing, engraved bezel, sapphire or acrylic crystal to spec, higher-beat automatic. This is where most buyers land.
- Top tier. Closest case geometry, period-correct dial printing, aged lume, and a movement that mimics the original's layout. These take longer to source and cost more.
How to Buy Without Getting Burned
- Ask for photos of the actual watch, not catalog images, including the caseback and movement.
- Request measurements: case diameter, lug width, and thickness.
- Confirm the bezel is fixed steel and check the engraving depth in a close-up.
- Check that the date has no magnifier and that the dial finish is matte.
- Review the return and warranty terms before paying.
- Compare the listing against photos of a genuine 1655 from an auction archive, not against other replica listings.
One last note: replica watches are not authorized by Rolex and carry trademark risk, and they will never hold value like an original. Treat a fake Rolex Explorer II 1655 as a wearable tribute, judge it on its own build quality, and buy from a seller who answers detailed questions about case, dial and movement rather than one who only posts marketing photos.