The Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655, marketed by sellers as the "Steve McQueen," is one of the most replicated vintage Rolex references. No genuine 1655 was ever worn by actor Steve McQueen, so the nickname is a collector and auction label rather than a factual link. Because a real 1655 now trades for five or six figures, replica makers target it heavily, and the fakes are identifiable through dial printing, coronet shape, hand geometry, bezel font, and case proportions.
What Is the Rolex Explorer II Ref. 1655?
Rolex introduced the reference 1655 in 1971 as a tool watch for cave explorers and polar researchers who lost track of day and night underground. It paired a fixed 24-hour steel bezel with a bright orange 24-hour hand, a matte black dial, and a 39 to 40 mm steel case. Production ran until 1985, when the ref. 16550 replaced it.
Did Steve McQueen Actually Wear a 1655?
No. McQueen was photographed with a Submariner, most often a ref. 5512 or 5513, and he died in 1980. The Explorer II 1655 nickname appeared later in the collector market and stuck because it helped sell watches. Auction houses and Rolex historians now repeat the correction, but the marketing name survives.
Why Is the 1655 So Heavily Replicated?
- The orange 24-hour hand is visually striking and easy to copy at a glance.
- Original dials exist in several versions, so sloppy printing is easy to excuse.
- High auction prices create demand from buyers who cannot afford a genuine example.
- Small case sizes and simple steel construction suit low-cost Asian case makers.
How Can You Tell a Fake Rolex 1655 From a Genuine One?
Dial and hands
Genuine 1655 dials use crisp, raised print with consistent spacing, and the coronet has five distinct points with a specific base shape. Early versions, including the so-called Rail dial, show a precise vertical alignment between the chronometer text and the depth rating. Replica dials typically show soft printing, a blunt or oversized coronet, and hands that sit too high above the dial.
Case, bezel, and crown guards
The fixed 24-hour bezel on a genuine 1655 has fine engraved numerals with an even black fill, and the crown guards are asymmetric with a pronounced upper shoulder. Fakes often use a wider bezel with thick, shallow engraving and rounded, symmetrical guards. Lugs on replica cases are usually thicker and the drilled lug holes sit at the wrong distance from the case edge.
Movement, caseback, and bracelet
A real 1655 runs a Rolex calibre 1575, a 27-jewel automatic movement, with a signed caseback reference stamp and matching serial. Replica and so-called franken watches hide generic ETA or Asian automatic movements behind stamped backs. Bracelet end links and clasp stamp codes are also frequently mismatched to the case year.
Are "Swiss Made" Replica 1655 Watches Legal?
No. Trafficking in counterfeit goods is a federal crime in the United States under 18 U.S.C. 2320, and U.S. Customs and Border Protection seizes counterfeit watches at the border as part of its intellectual property enforcement. Replica sellers also misuse the Rolex trademark and often the words "Swiss made," even though most counterfeit 1655 watches are assembled in Asia. Buying one funds an illegal trade and gives you a watch that no watchmaker will service.
What Do You Actually Get With a Replica 1655?
You get a non-serviceable case, a generic movement with no parts network, and zero resale value. The orange hand and matte dial may look convincing in photos, but the watch will not survive normal wear or hold any collectible status. If the 1655 design appeals to you, modern Explorer II references offer the same 24-hour function with genuine provenance.