Pick the check order first
Most comparisons fail because buyers stare at the dial. On the Portofino 39 the dial is the easiest part to copy and the hardest part to judge from a photo. Work the other way: case geometry, then crown and caseback, then dial print, then movement, then strap. That sequence removes most fakes inside two minutes.
If you have only sixty seconds, weigh the watch and measure lug to lug. Replica cases get milled from a different blank, so the numbers drift by a few tenths of a millimeter and the weight lands 10 to 20 g light.
What you need before you compare
- A digital caliper, not a ruler
- A 10x loupe
- A kitchen scale that reads to 1 g
- Daylight or a 5000K lamp
- Photos of the exact reference number you are checking
Step-by-step comparison
- Measure the case across the bezel at 3 and 9 o'clock. The Portofino 39 sits at 39.0 mm. Anything past 39.4 mm or under 38.6 mm is a different case.
- Measure lug to lug and case height. Write both numbers down. Compare them against the published figures for that reference.
- Inspect the crown under the loupe. The original carries a crisp, deep-relief IWC mark with polished edges; replicas show a soft, shallow logo or a mold line on the fluted grip.
- Turn the watch over. Read the caseback engraving. Original lettering cuts clean and even, with sharp interior corners. Fake engraving looks sandblasted and rounded.
- Check the caseback fit. The original seats flush with a thin, even seam. Gaps or a proud lip mean a mismatched case set.
- Read the dial print with the loupe. Look at the brand name, the numerals, and the 'automatic' line. Original pad printing sits sharp with no ink bleed and no double edge.
- Examine the applied markers. Original indices hold a mirror polish and sit level. Replica markers lean, sit high, or show tool marks at the base.
- Look at the date window. The original aperture has a beveled, polished frame and the disc sits close to the dial. Fakes show a raw stamped edge and a recessed disc.
- Check the hands. Original dauphine hands meet at a clean center line with no burr on the edge. Look for a rough bevel or uneven polish on the fake.
- Wind and set the movement. The original crown turns with light, even resistance and the hands move without stutter. Grit, backlash, or a wobbly crown points to a cheap movement.
- Inspect the strap. Original Santoni leather shows tight, even stitching and a clean edge paint line. Fakes show loose stitch spacing and paint that creeps onto the leather.
- Weigh the watch on the head only. Record the figure. Compare it with a known original from the same reference.
Options after the checks
Entry tier: expect a correct 39 mm case and a clean dial, with a basic movement and a generic strap. Buy only if case and dial pass steps 1 to 9.
Mid tier: expect a better caseback fit, a sharper dial print, and a leather strap with closer stitch spacing. This tier clears most visual checks in daylight.
fake portofino 39 where to buy
Top tier: expect correct case height, a properly finished movement with a signed rotor, and hardware that matches the original in weight and feel. Demand step 10 and step 12 pass before you pay.
Red flags that end the conversation
- Seller refuses case measurements or a weight figure
- Photos taken only from the front, never the caseback
- Case height quoted as "about" rather than a number
- Strap stitching visible as a loose, uneven line in the listing photo
- Price far under the market for the stated tier